1770's Quilted Brunswick
Back in November, I took a trip to Colonial Williamsburg. While looking around in one of my favorite shops (RIP Mary Dickinson), I came across this gorgeous quilted brunswick. It was simple in design and had a sacque back which made it even cuter. The price however, was not at all cute. After taking pictures of my extant, I got to work on making a replica as soon as I got home.
Photographs taken by my brother (and up and coming photographer)
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Watching the snowfall from above, was really an ethereal and peaceful sight |
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Absolutely breathtaking |
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Can someone say Winter wonderland? |
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Looking at extants, the brunswick was one of the more comfier and warmer variants of outerwear; it was also part of informal wear. It was closer to the body which provided more insulation and was a little more fashionable than the cloak/cape. Plus, the Brunswick also came in different styles. Fabric wise, it was either made out of silk or wool and was often lined with the same or contrasting fabrics.
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My extant from the Mary Dickinson Shop in Colonial Williamsburg |
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Possibly made from worsted wool or silk |
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Silk quilted brunswick with matching petticoat |
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Silk quilted Brunswick with a hood (?) |
Because I didn't have the time and patience to hand-quilt the fabric myself, I went on ahead and purchased pre-quilted cotton fabric from JoAnns. I was a bit apprehensive to go with it at first, but after having made a petticoat 5 years ago out of the same fabric, I figured it couldn't do too much harm as long as it was made of a natural fiber and kept me warm. I lined the jacket with blue cotton fabric from JoAnn's quilting section not only for fashion aesthetics, but for practicality; again, the goal is to keep as warm as possible.
I used the J.P.Ryan jacket pattern and elongated the jacket by 5 inches to make it into a caraco length. Also I cut the pattern larger (normally my dresses run XS-S because of my frame, so I made it L in order to wear my winter wools underneath.
The only setback I had with working on the Brunswick was how bulky the fabric was. After pleating the back to make the saque, I realized that it looked really awkward and just didn't sit right. I later learned from other seamstresses that quilted silks make a better choice for techniques like that because of how it falls. This fabric being too stiff would make the sacque stick out straight and as a result would allow cold air to come through.
With that in mind, I scrapped the idea and converted it into a fitted back instead. The back however ended up being a little shorter than the front and sides, but it's not really noticeable. Finally I added a hood from a DIY cape pattern I saw on Pinterest. All in all, I'd say that this was a good challenge and a good experiment. The jacket did in fact keep me warm in really cold wintery conditions; that definitely made me happy.
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